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A Royal Sport – Jack London


A Royal Sport – Jack London
Text in Englisch
10,00 €

The american author Jack London build his own sailboat in 1906, just to find himself on Hawaii where he experienced surfing. “A Royal Sport”, an excerpt of “The Cruise of the Snark”, is considered the first account of a man attempting to surf. He analyses the sea, the waves, the movement and man being one with nature. Part observant, part experience and part philosophical, he leads us into the powerful magic of surfing.”The face of that wave may be only six feet, yet you can slide down it a quarter of a mile, or half a mile, and not reach the bottom.”